The Drivers Ed Company

It is time to look at turning right from a major, busy, road into a minor road.

Your driving school may well have taught you to turn right on a quiet estate.  This article looks at turning right on a busy street.  There will be lots of traffic coming towards you.

It might be a good idea to look again at the MSPSL routine.  This is at the core of safe driving.  It lets you plan the best way to deal with a driving hazard.    Try to remember to do Mirror – Signal – Position – Speed - Look when you are driving.

You are on a driving lesson.  It is a busy town centre road.  There is lots happening all around you.  Your driving instructor asks you to take the next road on the right.  There are cars coming towards you. 

How are you going to handle this turn?  You are going to apply MSPSL.

First things first.  Make sure that you know here the junction is.

There a lots of clues that might tell you where the junction is.  You could look for gaps in the kern or buildings.  Road signs and markings will help you to see the junction.  You might see a pedestrian island in the middle of the road.  You could look for signs and road markings.

Now you know where the junction is.  You need to start to assess it.  What sort of problems can you see? 

Just as you did for left turns, you need to consider how far you could see into the new road and other road users.  There is the traffic coming towards you to think about.  Can you see a gap in the traffic developing?

It is extremely important that you check your mirrors when turning right.  It is vital that you check the right door mirror.  You need to be aware of motorbikes and cyclists.

Indicate right as soon as it is wise to do so.

Take up the right turn position.  Move to the right hand side of your lane.  In an ideal world, the right mirror should be just the correct side of the white line.  The exact position depends on the nature of the road and the amount of space available.  You may be able to use a refuge created by road markings.

The move to the right tells other road users that you do mean to turn right.  It is worth keeping an eye out for these clues.  They are called secondary indications.  You would be amazed how many road users ignore indicators.  The right turn position lets other traffic past.

Try to arrive at the junction at a safe gap in traffic.  This a space that lets you make the turn without causing another driver to react.  You will probably need to adjust your speed.  There might not be a suitable gap.  So, you need to arrive at the junction prepared to stop, but ready to go.

Re-assess the junction and the traffic.

Once it is safe to turn, re-check your mirrors.  Make the turn when the front of the car feels appears to be level with the middle of the new road. 

Avoid cutting the corner.  You might meet a car turning left.  Turning to early makes you cut the corner.   Try not to make the turn late.  You will need to work hard to keep the car safe if you turn late.

Drivetime Driver Training have announced that they now offer the BTEC in Driving Skills.  www.ddts.org.uk

A  history of traffic signs.

During the second half of the nineteenth century, bicycles became more popular.  Steep hills and sharpbends were very dangerous for earlycyclists, and "danger" and "caution"signs were erected at the top ofsteep hills. Signs showing skull andcrossbones were erected at the most dangerous places. Local authorities and cycling organisations installed an estimated 4000 warning signs. 

The year 1896 heralded the era of the motor car, and some motoring associations took up the business of placing signs. The Motor Car Act 1903 made local authorities responsible forplacing certain warning and prohibitory signs. The signs were for crossroads,steep hills and dangerous bends.

 "A" and "B" numbering of roads was introduced in 1921, and these numbers were shown on fingerpost-style signs alongside the destination and distance. Town or village name signs and warning signs for schools, level crossingsand double bends were introduced at the same time.

The main task of signposting our roads during the 1920s and1930s still fell on the motoring organisations, but in in 1931 a committee chaired by Sir Henry Maybury was asked to recommend improvements to the signing then in use.

By 1933 further new signs began to appear, including "No entry" and "Keep left" signs, warning signs for narrow roads and bridges, lowbridges, roundabouts and hospitals. Other signs followed duringthe 1930s, including "Halt at major road ahead". These formed the basis of our traffic signing until the early 1960s. 

It was not until after 1918 that white lines began to appear on our roads, and during the 1920s their use spread rapidly. 

In 1926 the first Ministry ofTransport  laid down general principles on the use of white lines.

In the1930s, white lines were used as"stop" lines at road junctions controlled by either police or traffic lights. Reflecting road studs (often referred to as "cat's eyes") first came into use in 1934.  By 1944, white lines were also being used to indicate traffic lanes and define the boundary of the main carriageway at entrances to side roads and lay-bys. 

It was realised that the old system of signing would not be adequate for motorways.

The AndersonCommittee was set up in 1958 to consider new designs. It recommendedmuch larger signs, with bluebackgrounds.

Then, in 1961, the Worboys Committee reviewed the complete system of traffic signing.

It concluded that the UK should adopt the main principles of the European system, with the message expressed as a symbol within a redtriangle (for warning signs) or a red circle (for prohibitions).   Work began on the conversion of British signs in 1965, and this is still the basic system in use today.

Later developments include the use of yellowbox markings at busy road junctions, special signs and road markings at pedestrian crossings,mini roundabouts and bus lanes.

Regulations published in 1994 included new regulatory and warning signs and simplified the yellow line system .  Further Regulations were published in 2002. More use is being made of new technology to provide better information to driverson hazards, delays and diversions. The future will undoubtedly see more developments in traffic signing to keep pace with the changing traffic demands on our roads.

This article will talk briefly about Advanced Driving in the UK.  It will then outline the reasons why all drivers should become an advanced driver.  The article will finish by looking at the advanced driver routine.

Imagine this situation. 

You passed your driving test.  It is a year or so since you said goodbye to driving lessons.  You have had a couple of scary moments:  Those moments when you took a bend a little too fast, or missed a red light.

These are the signs that bad driving habits are creeping in.  You have three choices. 

Carry on as you are and hope that you buck your ideas up.  What are you going to do if more bad habits creep in to your driving?

Go back to your driving school and ask the driving instructor for a refresher lesson.    A good idea and it will fix the bad habits – for now.

Take a course in advanced driving.  This is the best option.  It will change the way you drive and could cut your insurance.

What is advanced driving?

Advanced driving is the skill of seeing the problems on the road and choosing the correct position speed and gear to deal with them.    Advanced drivers are constantly aware of what is going on around them and react early to problems.

In the UK, there are three main advanced driver organisations. 

Diamond, which is run by the Driving Instructor Association.  They will train qualified drivers to a standard which means you could pass your driving test with less than six faults.  This is the standard that all driving instructors are expected to reach.

The Institute of Advance Motorists.  They train their members in the police advanced driver training system.  You either pass or fail the course.  The certificate is valid for life.

ROSPA.  They are also known as RODAR.  ROSPA also use the police advanced driving skills.  The certificates are graded bronze silver and gold.  Gold is roughly the standard a police officer would reach before starting blue light training.  A gold certificate is valid for three years.

Why take an advanced driving course?

To Enjoy Your Driving
Driving will become a pleasure.  You will see and deal with hazards early.  This will reduce your stress levels.

Confidence
It turns nervous drivers into good drivers.

To Reduce Your Crash Risk
Learn how to be in the right place at the right time.

To Improve Your Fuel Consumption
A good driving style could save you a months fuel a year

To Ensure Less Wear and Tear on Your Vehicle
Good drivers might never need to change their clutch.  Bad drivers end up changing it every few thousand miles

To Lower Your Insurance Premiums
'Nuff said

The advance driving routine

When you were learning to drive your driving instructor taught you the MSPSL driving routine.  Every driving school teaches this routine to learners.

MSPSL is a good routine if applied correctly.  However, most people leave the looking until the last second.  They stop when they don’t need to stop and go when they should stop.  The advance driver routine avoids this.

Advanced drivers use the information-position-speed-gear-acceleration routine.  This is called ISPGA.

As you are driving along you should constantly be gathering information about the road.  You need to be aware of everything that is around you.  This includes to the sides and behind you.  So don’t forget to use your mirrors.

Once you see a hazard start to select a safe position.  A safe position balances the hazard with traffic flow and vision.  As you get closer choose a good speed for that hazard, then select the correct gear for that speed.  As you get clear of the hazard, increase your speed to the correct speed for the road.

The information phase of the routine wraps around all the other phases.  You might choose third for a roundabout and then see a car approaching at speed.  This will change your choice of speed and gear.

This article tells you about the Theory Test.  It talks about the background; how to prepare for it; how to book it and how to sit the test.

The DSA introduced the Theory Test in the 1990's.  The intention was to make all learner drivers acquire the same basic level of knowledge about driving.  It also brought us into line with the rest of the EU.  Most of the members of the EU at the time had a theory element to their driving tests.

Since its introduction, the Theory Test has gone through a number of changes. They added the hazard perception test.   Now you use a touch screen computer to take the test.  The number of questions has increased.

Learning Styles

We need to look at how you learn before we can discuss different ways of preparing for your theory test.   You should prepare for the test in a way that best suits you.

 Each of us learns in a different way.  This is our learning style.  There are three main learning styles: Auditory, Visual and Kinaesthetic.  Most people are a mix of two or three styles - say kinaesthetic with a bit of visual.

Here are some questions to help you decide your learning style.

Do you remember the plots of films and TV programmes?  If someone shows you how to do something, do you remember what they did?  Then you are a visual learner.

Do you remember songs and conversations?  Do you learn better when some one you through the task?  Then you are an auditory learner.

Do you remember things once you have had a go at them?  Then you are a kinaesthetic learner.

Your reasons for learning affect your learning style.  Are you learning just to pass the test?  Are you learning so you can be a better driver?

Preparing for your theory test

Some Driving Schools have a training programme to help you prepare for your theory test. 

There are a number of ways to prepare for your theory test.  You should choose the mix that best suits your learning style and motivation. 

Rote learning aids

The DSA in its wisdom decided that they had to publish the theory test questions and answers.  This makes it the only public examination where you know the answers before you sit the test.  As a result, you can learn the answers off by heart.  This is learning by rote.

If you want to learn by rote, there are a number of CD ROMs and websites available.  Make sure that the CD ROMs or website is using the current question bank.

Active Learning aids

These learning aids actually help you to understand the Theory of Driving.  People who use active learning aids tend understand the theory of driving.  Those who learn by rote can struggle to apply the theory of driving to real driving.

There are three good quality active learning aids.  The CD Rom by GSP is the best active learning CD Rom.  GSP are part of Learning Driver Centres.  The BTEC in Driving Skills takes you from core knowledge to the toughest mock theory tests around.  The BTEC in Driving Science also has an active learning programme

Preparing for the hazard perception

Stage one – Ask your driving instructor to spend a couple of driving lessons on hazard perception.

Stage two – Practice spotting the hazards every time you are in the front seat of a car

Stage three – Find a free hazard perception website and practice the test no more than three times

Booking your theory test

The DSA prefer you to book your theory test online.  You can go to the DSA website or through Direct.gov.  They will take you to the booking service.  Just follow the instructions on the booking service website. 

Be warned – at certain times of year the online theory test booking service can be very slow.  You can ring the DSA and book the theory test over the phone.  You will be on the phone for a long time though.

When you book your theory test, make sure that you tell them if you have any special needs.  You might need a reader because you struggle with reading.

The day of the test

Arrive at the test centre five minutes early.  Make sure that you have your confirmation letter from the DSA and both parts of your driving licence.  You will not take your test if you do not have these documents.  If you are late arriving for your test, you will not take it.  They have too many people taking the test to wait for you.

The test.

The theory test is in two parts.

The first part is the actual theory test.  You must answer 43 out of 50 multiple-choice questions correctly.  You answer them by touching the appropriate answer on the screen.  Try reading the question with each of the available answers.  That usually makes it clear which is the correct answer.

After the theory test, you face the hazard perception test.  This is 14 short films shot from a car as it was driven about.  13 of these films have one scoring hazard.  One film has two scoring hazard. 

Your task is to click the mouse when you see the scoring hazard.  You can score up to five points for each hazard.  You need to score44 or more to pass.

The problem is that the films contain more than one hazard – which one is the scoring hazard.  You cannot fail if you click the wrong hazard.  You can fail if you click all the time or with a rhythm.

Give a little commentary in your head as you are watching the films.  Say what you see happening on the screen.  Every time you mention a hazard click.  Click when you see the hazard and click every time it changes.

The end of the Theory test

After the hazard perception, the DSA may ask you to complete a survey.  It is up to you if you do the survey.  When you are done, go back to the receptionist and collect the result.

This article explains what to expect on your first driving lesson.  You have spent a lot of time researching and choosing a driving school.  You want to get the best out of your first lesson. 

Don’t expect to come back from your first lesson ready for your test.  Do expect to come back from it stressed, confused and slightly hyper.

Things to do before your first driving lesson

·         Read up on car controls, moving off and stopping and left turns.  There are plenty of good books.  You could use one of the two BTECs in learning to drive.

·         Make sure you know where both parts of your driving licence are.  Your driving instructor will need to see both parts. 

·         Make sure you have the money to pay for the lesson.  Most driving instructors will say no money no lesson

·         Find comfortable shoes with a thin sole and a little grip.  It will help you feel the pedals

·         If you wear glasses make sure that they are clean

The start of the lesson

When your instructor arrives, they will introduce themselves and ask to see your driving licence.  They are checking your entitlement to drive.  You can expect them to check your eye site.  They might ask you to read the number plate of a car.

When you get in the car, check the front windscreen.  All official driving instructors will display a pink or green badge in the front windscreen.  If you cannot see the badge, ask the driving instructor to show you it.  If they cannot show you their badge, they are not a real driving instructor.  You should cancel the lesson and tell the DSA.

Once you are in the car your driving instructor will need to ask you three questions.    Can they have the money for the lesson?  This gets you in the habit of having the money.  Where do you want to finish the lesson?  You might want to finish at a friends house.  Your instructor needs to know so they can plan the drive.  Is this time slot going to be Ok for you?  They need to plan their workload and keep the space open.

Your instructor will probably drive you to an area where the roads are nice and quiet.  It makes the first lesson a lot easier if the roads are quiet.

The lesson

You have arrived at the place where you will start to learn to drive. 

Your driving instructor will ask you sit in the driver’s seat.  That is all they want you to do.  You are about to learn how to set the car up for your use.  

The instructor will teach you how to check the doors, seat, steering wheel, seat belt and mirrors.  Get into the habit of checking these every time you get into the car.

Once the car is set up for your use the driving instructor needs to explain what each of the car controls do.  Some driving instructors may do this as they drive you to the safe area.  Either way it is very important that you listen to this part of the lesson.

Make sure that you understand how to use the steering wheel, brake, clutch, gas, signals and parking brake.  

Once your driving instructor has explained how to use the car controls they will explain the commands they will give.   These are the instructions they will use when you are driving.  Cover the... foot over the pedal.  More – press it down, less – let it come up.

Its now time to get the car moving.  Have fun

There are several types of pedestrian crossings.  You have Pelican, Puffin,Toucan, Pegasus, and courtesy crossings.  This article gives out a method of handling them safely

You need to know the types to identify the hazards. When driving it will be a light controlled crossing or a zebra crossing?    As you get closer, you will be able to see which type of crossing it is.  How many pedestrians are close to the crossing?  What can you see?

Zebra or uncontrolled crossing

These are identified by the black and white markings on the road and the Belisha beacons.  The beacons are orange balls on a black and white pole.

See the hazard.  It is a zebra so no lights to tell you what to do. 

Assess the hazard.  Any pedestrians at or near the crossing.

Mirrors

Speed.  Stop for any pedestrians using, or about to use, the crossing.  Be cautious if there is no one about.  They just might appear.

Carry on when the last person has one foot on their new footpath.

Light Controlled Crossings

Pelican Crossings. 

Look at the yellow box.  Any lights showing.  If there are then the button has been pressed.   You might see a yellow light.  The newer crossings will have two read lights showing on the yellow box.  These lights tell you that someone has pressed the button to cross.  Any one near the crossing, then expect to stop. 

Puffin. 

These have a sensor on the crossing.  They will keep the lights on read until the pedestrian is clear of the crossing.  Look for two red lights on the control box.  That is a sign that the button has been pressed.

Toucan crossings. 

A Toucan crossing lets cyclists and pedestrians cross at the same place.  Expect cyclists to zoom across.  That is what a Toucan is for.  Some Toucan crossings may have two sets of control boxes.  The rear one is for cyclists.

Pegasus crossings. 

These have a second control box set back from the road and several feet from the floor.  The box is set for horse and riders

Routine

See the crossing.  What warnings am I going to get?   Look for people near or walking towards the crossing. 

Assess the crossing.  Any body near it?  Am I likely to need to stop?  Can I see both sides of the crossing?  Can I see my clues?

Mirrors

Speed.  Ready to stop but prepared to go

Look.  Have the lights moved to amber from green?  Anybody towards the zebra crossing?  If so, get ready to stop.

Action.  Drive on if it is safe to do so.  Stop if someone is using the crossing and wait for them to get clear.

When the light moves from red to amber, or flashing amber, you may drive on if nobody is using the crossing.

Courtesy Crossing

A lot of councils have introduced courtesy crossings.  You will find them on busy roads with a lot of pedestrians.  Places where pedestrians tend to step out without looking.  The idea was to encourage pedestrians to cross at safer places. 

Courtesy Crossings are marked by different coloured stones across the road or some white lines.  They have no legal position.  This does not mean that you can ignore pedestrians crossing the road.  Once the pedestrian starts to cross you must stop.  If a pedestrian is waiting to cross and it is safe to stop then stop.

Pedestrians

A word of warning. 

Pedestrians cross the road where ever they like.  They will run out without warning.  They will cross the road feet from a crossing. 

Once a pedestrian is on the road they have right of way.  You must stop.

The Turn in the Road

The turn in the road is the original driving testmanoeuvre.  It was introduced when the driving test was created.  Most driving schools teach this early on in your driver training. 

Your driving instructor will choose a nice quiet and wide road for your first go.  They will talk to you about themanoeuvre and talk to you as you try it out for the first few times. 

After a couple of driving lesson you will find that you can do the turn in the road quiet easily. Your driving instructor will take you to narrower roads, roads with cars about.  They will ask you to turn the car around on roads with a steep camber.  The camber is the way the road slopes to the kern.

The secrets to the Turn in the Road

Look where you are going.  As you reverse the car look over your left shoulder until the car starts to point the other way.  Then look over your right shoulder and look for the kern.

 Do not use the mirrors – they will not give the true picture. 

Use your clutch and brake for this exercise.  Small foot movements will give the best control.

Start themanoeuvre from a parked position and make full use of the kern

Why do I need to know this?

Imagine that you have taken the wrong turning.  You need to go back the way you came.  There are no roundabouts, and you cannot drive round the block. 

The turn in the road is usually the safest way of turning the car round.

It used to be called the three point turn.  The examiners are not worried about the number of points in the turn, as long as it right for the road.

How do I do this?

Before you start

• Is it safe to do the manoeuvre here?
• Is it legal to do the manoeuvre here?
• Is it going to affect other road users if you do the manoeuvre here?
• Is it possible to do the manoeuvre here?

Step 1

• Start with the car in the normal parking position.
• Prepare the car to move off as you normally would.
• Check all around you.  Left shoulder - each mirror - right shoulder.
• Move off very slowly.  Steer right fast.
• Stop just before you hit the kern.  Just before you stop flick the wheel to the left.
• Handbrake

Step 2

• Prepare the car into reverse.
• Look left and right
• Look over your left shoulder - out of the back window.
• Move off very slowly.  Steer left fast.
• As the car starts to point to the right look over your right shoulder and look for the kern.
• Stop before you hit the kern.  Before you stop flick the wheel to the right.
• Handbrake

 Step 3

• Prepare the car into first gear.
• Look left and right
• Drive off slowly steering rapidly to the right
• When you are in your normal road position check your mirrors and build up speed.

Points to note

1. It is not a three point turn.  Three is the minimum number of points that this manoeuvre takes.
2. If another road user appears complete the step that you are on and then wait for them to decide what to do.

What are the examiners looking for?

The examiner will tell you what they are looking for.  The list includes

Make full use of the road

Keep the car under control

Not hit the kern

Take account of other road users

Not take too long over the turn in the road

The gear stick matches the speed of the engine to the speed of the car.  It moves the cogs in the gearbox to allow the engine to work efficiently. 

If you look at the top of the gear stick, you will see a small ball.  This ball is designed so that you only need to guide the stick into position.  If you have the palm of your hand facing, where you want the gear stick to go - it will go there. 

On the ball you will see the numbers 1 to 5 and the letter R.  These are the gears.  First gear gives a lot of power and little speed.  Fifth gear gives a lot of speed and little power.  The numbers are set out on an extended H.  This H tells you where to aim the gear stick to choose that gear.

How to Change Gears

Clutch down and off gas at the same time

Hand on gear stick

Move the stick into the new gear

Hand on steering wheel

More gas less clutch

When to change gear

Set off in first gear.  Into second as soon as you can.  If the car sounds fast and high-pitched, use a higher gear.  If the car is struggling, use a lower gear.  Ask your instructor for the speed ranges for each gear.

You may need a lower gear going up or down hill

Try block gear changing.  This is missing out gears to make the car work more efficiently.  You know you will have to stop at the lights - so slow down into gear and change straight to first just before you stop.

Using the Clutch

The clutch is the pedal on the left.  You operate it with your left foot.  It operates two plates in the gearbox.  These plates join the power and drive parts of the engine together.  When you press the pedal down, the clutch plates move apart allowing you to change gear.

1.    The Clutch allows you to change gear - look again at Changing Gears

2.    It allows you to control the speed of the car.  This is useful when travelling in slow moving traffic or in manoeuvres.  Ask your instructor to let you try moving and stopping the car using the clutch.

3.    It allows you to move the car when you are on a steep hill.  Have a look at the section on Hill Starts

Which gear do I use?

There is no right or wrong answer to this question.  Each gear covers a range of speeds. 

Older cars have a narrower range.  That is why older drivers will tell you that third covers twenty to thirty.  In older cars you may have to change gear to assist with braking.   The gearing in modern cars covers a wider range of speeds.  Third might cover from 15 to 40.

There are two things to think about when changing gear. 

Listen and feel the engine.  If the car sounds and feels as though it is straining change up a gear.  The engine will have a higher tone.  If the car is sluggish, change down a gear.

You must balance the engines needs with the road ahead.    Try to select the right gear for the road conditions.   There is little point changing up a gear as you approach traffic lights that have been green for some time.