Site blog: The Drivers Ed Company

Turning right

Wed, 24 Feb 2010 23:08:53 GMT

by Tim Hillerby - Morgan.

It is time to look at turning right from a major, busy, road into a minor road.

Your driving school may well have taught you to turn right on a quiet estate. This article looks at turning right on a busy street. There will be lots of traffic coming towards you.

It might be a good idea to look again at the MSPSL routine. This is at the core of safe driving. It lets you plan the best way to deal with a driving hazard. Try to remember to do Mirror – Signal – Position – Speed - Look when you are driving.

You are on a driving lesson. It is a busy town centre road. There is lots happening all around you. Your driving instructor asks you to take the next road on the right. There are cars coming towards you.

How are you going to handle this turn? You are going to apply MSPSL.

First things first. Make sure that you know here the junction is.

There a lots of clues that might tell you where the junction is. You could look for gaps in the kern or buildings. Road signs and markings will help you to see the junction. You might see a pedestrian island in the middle of the road. You could look for signs and road markings.

Now you know where the junction is. You need to start to assess it. What sort of problems can you see?

Just as you did for left turns, you need to consider how far you could see into the new road and other road users. There is the traffic coming towards you to think about. Can you see a gap in the traffic developing?

It is extremely important that you check your mirrors when turning right. It is vital that you check the right door mirror. You need to be aware of motorbikes and cyclists.

Indicate right as soon as it is wise to do so.

Take up the right turn position. Move to the right hand side of your lane. In an ideal world, the right mirror should be just the correct side of the white line. The exact position depends on the nature of the road and the amount of space available. You may be able to use a refuge created by road markings.

The move to the right tells other road users that you do mean to turn right. It is worth keeping an eye out for these clues. They are called secondary indications. You would be amazed how many road users ignore indicators. The right turn position lets other traffic past.

Try to arrive at the junction at a safe gap in traffic. This a space that lets you make the turn without causing another driver to react. You will probably need to adjust your speed. There might not be a suitable gap. So, you need to arrive at the junction prepared to stop, but ready to go.

Re-assess the junction and the traffic.

Once it is safe to turn, re-check your mirrors. Make the turn when the front of the car feels appears to be level with the middle of the new road.

Avoid cutting the corner. You might meet a car turning left. Turning to early makes you cut the corner. Try not to make the turn late. You will need to work hard to keep the car safe if you turn late.

A Brief History of Road Signs

Mon, 08 Feb 2010 23:57:10 GMT

by Tim Hillerby - Morgan.

A history of traffic signs.

During the second half of the nineteenth century, bicycles became more popular. Steep hills and sharpbends were very dangerous for earlycyclists, and "danger" and "caution"signs were erected at the top ofsteep hills. Signs showing skull andcrossbones were erected at the most dangerous places. Local authorities and cycling organisations installed an estimated 4000 warning signs.

The year 1896 heralded the era of the motor car, and some motoring associations took up the business of placing signs. The Motor Car Act 1903 made local authorities responsible forplacing certain warning and prohibitory signs. The signs were for crossroads,steep hills and dangerous bends.

"A" and "B" numbering of roads was introduced in 1921, and these numbers were shown on fingerpost-style signs alongside the destination and distance. Town or village name signs and warning signs for schools, level crossingsand double bends were introduced at the same time.

The main task of signposting our roads during the 1920s and1930s still fell on the motoring organisations, but in in 1931 a committee chaired by Sir Henry Maybury was asked to recommend improvements to the signing then in use.

By 1933 further new signs began to appear, including "No entry" and "Keep left" signs, warning signs for narrow roads and bridges, lowbridges, roundabouts and hospitals. Other signs followed duringthe 1930s, including "Halt at major road ahead". These formed the basis of our traffic signing until the early 1960s.

It was not until after 1918 that white lines began to appear on our roads, and during the 1920s their use spread rapidly.

In 1926 the first Ministry ofTransport laid down general principles on the use of white lines.

In the1930s, white lines were used as"stop" lines at road junctions controlled by either police or traffic lights. Reflecting road studs (often referred to as "cat's eyes") first came into use in 1934. By 1944, white lines were also being used to indicate traffic lanes and define the boundary of the main carriageway at entrances to side roads and lay-bys.

It was realised that the old system of signing would not be adequate for motorways.

The AndersonCommittee was set up in 1958 to consider new designs. It recommendedmuch larger signs, with bluebackgrounds.

Then, in 1961, the Worboys Committee reviewed the complete system of traffic signing.

It concluded that the UK should adopt the main principles of the European system, with the message expressed as a symbol within a redtriangle (for warning signs) or a red circle (for prohibitions). Work began on the conversion of British signs in 1965, and this is still the basic system in use today.

Later developments include the use of yellowbox markings at busy road junctions, special signs and road markings at pedestrian crossings,mini roundabouts and bus lanes.

Regulations published in 1994 included new regulatory and warning signs and simplified the yellow line system . Further Regulations were published in 2002. More use is being made of new technology to provide better information to driverson hazards, delays and diversions. The future will undoubtedly see more developments in traffic signing to keep pace with the changing traffic demands on our roads.

We offer the BTEC

Mon, 08 Feb 2010 23:38:32 GMT

by Tim Hillerby - Morgan.

Drivetime Driver Training have announced that they now offer the BTEC in Driving Skills. www.ddts.org.uk

Advanced Driving

Sat, 09 Jan 2010 11:16:26 GMT

by Tim Hillerby - Morgan.

This article will talk briefly about Advanced Driving in the UK. It will then outline the reasons why all drivers should become an advanced driver. The article will finish by looking at the advanced driver routine.

Imagine this situation.

You passed your driving test. It is a year or so since you said goodbye to driving lessons. You have had a couple of scary moments: Those moments when you took a bend a little too fast, or missed a red light.

These are the signs that bad driving habits are creeping in. You have three choices.

Carry on as you are and hope that you buck your ideas up. What are you going to do if more bad habits creep in to your driving?

Go back to your driving school and ask the driving instructor for a refresher lesson. A good idea and it will fix the bad habits – for now.

Take a course in advanced driving. This is the best option. It will change the way you drive and could cut your insurance.

What is advanced driving?

Advanced driving is the skill of seeing the problems on the road and choosing the correct position speed and gear to deal with them. Advanced drivers are constantly aware of what is going on around them and react early to problems.

In the UK, there are three main advanced driver organisations.

Diamond, which is run by the Driving Instructor Association. They will train qualified drivers to a standard which means you could pass your driving test with less than six faults. This is the standard that all driving instructors are expected to reach.

The Institute of Advance Motorists. They train their members in the police advanced driver training system. You either pass or fail the course. The certificate is valid for life.

ROSPA. They are also known as RODAR. ROSPA also use the police advanced driving skills. The certificates are graded bronze silver and gold. Gold is roughly the standard a police officer would reach before starting blue light training. A gold certificate is valid for three years.

Why take an advanced driving course?

To Enjoy Your Driving
Driving will become a pleasure. You will see and deal with hazards early. This will reduce your stress levels.

Confidence
It turns nervous drivers into good drivers.

To Reduce Your Crash Risk
Learn how to be in the right place at the right time.

To Improve Your Fuel Consumption
A good driving style could save you a months fuel a year

To Ensure Less Wear and Tear on Your Vehicle
Good drivers might never need to change their clutch. Bad drivers end up changing it every few thousand miles

To Lower Your Insurance Premiums
'Nuff said

The advance driving routine

When you were learning to drive your driving instructor taught you the MSPSL driving routine. Every driving school teaches this routine to learners.

MSPSL is a good routine if applied correctly. However, most people leave the looking until the last second. They stop when they don’t need to stop and go when they should stop. The advance driver routine avoids this.

Advanced drivers use the information-position-speed-gear-acceleration routine. This is called ISPGA.

As you are driving along you should constantly be gathering information about the road. You need to be aware of everything that is around you. This includes to the sides and behind you. So don’t forget to use your mirrors.

Once you see a hazard start to select a safe position. A safe position balances the hazard with traffic flow and vision. As you get closer choose a good speed for that hazard, then select the correct gear for that speed. As you get clear of the hazard, increase your speed to the correct speed for the road.

The information phase of the routine wraps around all the other phases. You might choose third for a roundabout and then see a car approaching at speed. This will change your choice of speed and gear.

The Theory Test

Thu, 07 Jan 2010 23:24:51 GMT

by Tim Hillerby - Morgan.

This article tells you about the Theory Test. It talks about the background; how to prepare for it; how to book it and how to sit the test.

The DSA introduced the Theory Test in the 1990's. The intention was to make all learner drivers acquire the same basic level of knowledge about driving. It also brought us into line with the rest of the EU. Most of the members of the EU at the time had a theory element to their driving tests.

Since its introduction, the Theory Test has gone through a number of changes. They added the hazard perception test. Now you use a touch screen computer to take the test. The number of questions has increased.

Learning Styles

We need to look at how you learn before we can discuss different ways of preparing for your theory test. You should prepare for the test in a way that best suits you.

Each of us learns in a different way. This is our learning style. There are three main learning styles: Auditory, Visual and Kinaesthetic. Most people are a mix of two or three styles - say kinaesthetic with a bit of visual.

Here are some questions to help you decide your learning style.

Do you remember the plots of films and TV programmes? If someone shows you how to do something, do you remember what they did? Then you are a visual learner.

Do you remember songs and conversations? Do you learn better when some one you through the task? Then you are an auditory learner.

Do you remember things once you have had a go at them? Then you are a kinaesthetic learner.

Your reasons for learning affect your learning style. Are you learning just to pass the test? Are you learning so you can be a better driver?

Preparing for your theory test

Some Driving Schools have a training programme to help you prepare for your theory test.

There are a number of ways to prepare for your theory test. You should choose the mix that best suits your learning style and motivation.

Rote learning aids

The DSA in its wisdom decided that they had to publish the theory test questions and answers. This makes it the only public examination where you know the answers before you sit the test. As a result, you can learn the answers off by heart. This is learning by rote.

If you want to learn by rote, there are a number of CD ROMs and websites available. Make sure that the CD ROMs or website is using the current question bank.

Active Learning aids

These learning aids actually help you to understand the Theory of Driving. People who use active learning aids tend understand the theory of driving. Those who learn by rote can struggle to apply the theory of driving to real driving.

There are three good quality active learning aids. The CD Rom by GSP is the best active learning CD Rom. GSP are part of Learning Driver Centres. The BTEC in Driving Skills takes you from core knowledge to the toughest mock theory tests around. The BTEC in Driving Science also has an active learning programme

Preparing for the hazard perception

Stage one – Ask your driving instructor to spend a couple of driving lessons on hazard perception.

Stage two – Practice spotting the hazards every time you are in the front seat of a car

Stage three – Find a free hazard perception website and practice the test no more than three times

Booking your theory test

The DSA prefer you to book your theory test online. You can go to the DSA website or through Direct.gov. They will take you to the booking service. Just follow the instructions on the booking service website.

Be warned – at certain times of year the online theory test booking service can be very slow. You can ring the DSA and book the theory test over the phone. You will be on the phone for a long time though.

When you book your theory test, make sure that you tell them if you have any special needs. You might need a reader because you struggle with reading.

The day of the test

Arrive at the test centre five minutes early. Make sure that you have your confirmation letter from the DSA and both parts of your driving licence. You will not take your test if you do not have these documents. If you are late arriving for your test, you will not take it. They have too many people taking the test to wait for you.

The test.

The theory test is in two parts.

The first part is the actual theory test. You must answer 43 out of 50 multiple-choice questions correctly. You answer them by touching the appropriate answer on the screen. Try reading the question with each of the available answers. That usually makes it clear which is the correct answer.

After the theory test, you face the hazard perception test. This is 14 short films shot from a car as it was driven about. 13 of these films have one scoring hazard. One film has two scoring hazard.

Your task is to click the mouse when you see the scoring hazard. You can score up to five points for each hazard. You need to score44 or more to pass.

The problem is that the films contain more than one hazard – which one is the scoring hazard. You cannot fail if you click the wrong hazard. You can fail if you click all the time or with a rhythm.

Give a little commentary in your head as you are watching the films. Say what you see happening on the screen. Every time you mention a hazard click. Click when you see the hazard and click every time it changes.

The end of the Theory test

After the hazard perception, the DSA may ask you to complete a survey. It is up to you if you do the survey. When you are done, go back to the receptionist and collect the result.

Your first driving lesson

Tue, 05 Jan 2010 22:28:46 GMT

by Tim Hillerby - Morgan.

This article explains what to expect on your first driving lesson. You have spent a lot of time researching and choosing a driving school. You want to get the best out of your first lesson.

Don’t expect to come back from your first lesson ready for your test. Do expect to come back from it stressed, confused and slightly hyper.

Things to do before your first driving lesson

· Read up on car controls, moving off and stopping and left turns. There are plenty of good books. You could use one of the two BTECs in learning to drive.

· Make sure you know where both parts of your driving licence are. Your driving instructor will need to see both parts.

· Make sure you have the money to pay for the lesson. Most driving instructors will say no money no lesson

· Find comfortable shoes with a thin sole and a little grip. It will help you feel the pedals

· If you wear glasses make sure that they are clean

The start of the lesson

When your instructor arrives, they will introduce themselves and ask to see your driving licence. They are checking your entitlement to drive. You can expect them to check your eye site. They might ask you to read the number plate of a car.

When you get in the car, check the front windscreen. All official driving instructors will display a pink or green badge in the front windscreen. If you cannot see the badge, ask the driving instructor to show you it. If they cannot show you their badge, they are not a real driving instructor. You should cancel the lesson and tell the DSA.

Once you are in the car your driving instructor will need to ask you three questions. Can they have the money for the lesson? This gets you in the habit of having the money. Where do you want to finish the lesson? You might want to finish at a friends house. Your instructor needs to know so they can plan the drive. Is this time slot going to be Ok for you? They need to plan their workload and keep the space open.

Your instructor will probably drive you to an area where the roads are nice and quiet. It makes the first lesson a lot easier if the roads are quiet.

The lesson

You have arrived at the place where you will start to learn to drive.

Your driving instructor will ask you sit in the driver’s seat. That is all they want you to do. You are about to learn how to set the car up for your use.

The instructor will teach you how to check the doors, seat, steering wheel, seat belt and mirrors. Get into the habit of checking these every time you get into the car.

Once the car is set up for your use the driving instructor needs to explain what each of the car controls do. Some driving instructors may do this as they drive you to the safe area. Either way it is very important that you listen to this part of the lesson.

Make sure that you understand how to use the steering wheel, brake, clutch, gas, signals and parking brake.

Once your driving instructor has explained how to use the car controls they will explain the commands they will give. These are the instructions they will use when you are driving. Cover the... foot over the pedal. More – press it down, less – let it come up.

Its now time to get the car moving. Have fun

Drive Me Mad Driver Training

Fri, 01 Jan 2010 23:04:54 GMT

by Tim Hillerby - Morgan.

Drive Me Mad Driver Training are to offer the BTEC in Driver Training. Drive Me Mad are a national driver triainging Consultancy. Drivememad.com

Pedestrian Crossings

Tue, 29 Dec 2009 14:37:41 GMT

by Tim Hillerby - Morgan.

There are several types of pedestrian crossings. You have Pelican, Puffin,Toucan, Pegasus, and courtesy crossings. This article gives out a method of handling them safely

You need to know the types to identify the hazards. When driving it will be a light controlled crossing or a zebra crossing? As you get closer, you will be able to see which type of crossing it is. How many pedestrians are close to the crossing? What can you see?

Zebra or uncontrolled crossing

These are identified by the black and white markings on the road and the Belisha beacons. The beacons are orange balls on a black and white pole.

See the hazard. It is a zebra so no lights to tell you what to do.

Assess the hazard. Any pedestrians at or near the crossing.

Mirrors

Speed. Stop for any pedestrians using, or about to use, the crossing. Be cautious if there is no one about. They just might appear.

Carry on when the last person has one foot on their new footpath.

Light Controlled Crossings

Pelican Crossings.

Look at the yellow box. Any lights showing. If there are then the button has been pressed. You might see a yellow light. The newer crossings will have two read lights showing on the yellow box. These lights tell you that someone has pressed the button to cross. Any one near the crossing, then expect to stop.

Puffin.

These have a sensor on the crossing. They will keep the lights on read until the pedestrian is clear of the crossing. Look for two red lights on the control box. That is a sign that the button has been pressed.

Toucan crossings.

A Toucan crossing lets cyclists and pedestrians cross at the same place. Expect cyclists to zoom across. That is what a Toucan is for. Some Toucan crossings may have two sets of control boxes. The rear one is for cyclists.

Pegasus crossings.

These have a second control box set back from the road and several feet from the floor. The box is set for horse and riders

Routine

See the crossing. What warnings am I going to get? Look for people near or walking towards the crossing.

Assess the crossing. Any body near it? Am I likely to need to stop? Can I see both sides of the crossing? Can I see my clues?

Mirrors

Speed. Ready to stop but prepared to go

Look. Have the lights moved to amber from green? Anybody towards the zebra crossing? If so, get ready to stop.

Action. Drive on if it is safe to do so. Stop if someone is using the crossing and wait for them to get clear.

When the light moves from red to amber, or flashing amber, you may drive on if nobody is using the crossing.

Courtesy Crossing

A lot of councils have introduced courtesy crossings. You will find them on busy roads with a lot of pedestrians. Places where pedestrians tend to step out without looking. The idea was to encourage pedestrians to cross at safer places.

Courtesy Crossings are marked by different coloured stones across the road or some white lines. They have no legal position. This does not mean that you can ignore pedestrians crossing the road. Once the pedestrian starts to cross you must stop. If a pedestrian is waiting to cross and it is safe to stop then stop.

Pedestrians

A word of warning.

Pedestrians cross the road where ever they like. They will run out without warning. They will cross the road feet from a crossing.

Once a pedestrian is on the road they have right of way. You must stop.

Turn in the Road

Tue, 29 Dec 2009 13:39:25 GMT

by Tim Hillerby - Morgan.

The Turn in the Road

The turn in the road is the original driving testmanoeuvre. It was introduced when the driving test was created. Most driving schools teach this early on in your driver training.

Your driving instructor will choose a nice quiet and wide road for your first go. They will talk to you about themanoeuvre and talk to you as you try it out for the first few times.

After a couple of driving lesson you will find that you can do the turn in the road quiet easily. Your driving instructor will take you to narrower roads, roads with cars about. They will ask you to turn the car around on roads with a steep camber. The camber is the way the road slopes to the kern.

The secrets to the Turn in the Road

Look where you are going. As you reverse the car look over your left shoulder until the car starts to point the other way. Then look over your right shoulder and look for the kern.

Do not use the mirrors – they will not give the true picture.

Use your clutch and brake for this exercise. Small foot movements will give the best control.

Start themanoeuvre from a parked position and make full use of the kern

Why do I need to know this?

Imagine that you have taken the wrong turning. You need to go back the way you came. There are no roundabouts, and you cannot drive round the block.

The turn in the road is usually the safest way of turning the car round.

It used to be called the three point turn. The examiners are not worried about the number of points in the turn, as long as it right for the road.

How do I do this?

Before you start

Is it safe to do the manoeuvre here?
Is it legal to do the manoeuvre here?
Is it going to affect other road users if you do the manoeuvre here?
Is it possible to do the manoeuvre here?

Step 1

Start with the car in the normal parking position.
Prepare the car to move off as you normally would.
Check all around you. Left shoulder - each mirror - right shoulder.
Move off very slowly. Steer right fast.
Stop just before you hit the kern. Just before you stop flick the wheel to the left.
Handbrake

Step 2

Prepare the car into reverse.
Look left and right
Look over your left shoulder - out of the back window.
Move off very slowly. Steer left fast.
As the car starts to point to the right look over your right shoulder and look for the kern.
Stop before you hit the kern. Before you stop flick the wheel to the right.
Handbrake

Step 3

Prepare the car into first gear.
Look left and right
Drive off slowly steering rapidly to the right
When you are in your normal road position check your mirrors and build up speed.

Points to note

It is not a three point turn. Three is the minimum number of points that this manoeuvre takes.
If another road user appears complete the step that you are on and then wait for them to decide what to do.

What are the examiners looking for?

The examiner will tell you what they are looking for. The list includes

Make full use of the road

Keep the car under control

Not hit the kern

Take account of other road users

Not take too long over the turn in the road

Changing Gears

Sun, 27 Dec 2009 15:15:09 GMT

by Tim Hillerby - Morgan.

The gear stick matches the speed of the engine to the speed of the car. It moves the cogs in the gearbox to allow the engine to work efficiently.

If you look at the top of the gear stick, you will see a small ball. This ball is designed so that you only need to guide the stick into position. If you have the palm of your hand facing, where you want the gear stick to go - it will go there.

On the ball you will see the numbers 1 to 5 and the letter R. These are the gears. First gear gives a lot of power and little speed. Fifth gear gives a lot of speed and little power. The numbers are set out on an extended H. This H tells you where to aim the gear stick to choose that gear.

How to Change Gears

Clutch down and off gas at the same time

Hand on gear stick

Move the stick into the new gear

Hand on steering wheel

More gas less clutch

When to change gear

Set off in first gear. Into second as soon as you can. If the car sounds fast and high-pitched, use a higher gear. If the car is struggling, use a lower gear. Ask your instructor for the speed ranges for each gear.

You may need a lower gear going up or down hill

Try block gear changing. This is missing out gears to make the car work more efficiently. You know you will have to stop at the lights - so slow down into gear and change straight to first just before you stop.

Using the Clutch

The clutch is the pedal on the left. You operate it with your left foot. It operates two plates in the gearbox. These plates join the power and drive parts of the engine together. When you press the pedal down, the clutch plates move apart allowing you to change gear.

1. The Clutch allows you to change gear - look again at Changing Gears

2. It allows you to control the speed of the car. This is useful when travelling in slow moving traffic or in manoeuvres. Ask your instructor to let you try moving and stopping the car using the clutch.

3. It allows you to move the car when you are on a steep hill. Have a look at the section on Hill Starts

Which gear do I use?

There is no right or wrong answer to this question. Each gear covers a range of speeds.

Older cars have a narrower range. That is why older drivers will tell you that third covers twenty to thirty. In older cars you may have to change gear to assist with braking. The gearing in modern cars covers a wider range of speeds. Third might cover from 15 to 40.

There are two things to think about when changing gear.

Listen and feel the engine. If the car sounds and feels as though it is straining change up a gear. The engine will have a higher tone. If the car is sluggish, change down a gear.

You must balance the engines needs with the road ahead. Try to select the right gear for the road conditions. There is little point changing up a gear as you approach traffic lights that have been green for some time.

What does this bit do?

Wed, 23 Dec 2009 23:38:56 GMT

by Tim Hillerby - Morgan.

It is surprising how many learner drivers don't know what each of the car controls does. Your driving instructor will talk through the controls with you on your first driving lesson.

It is a balancing act. The more time you spend learning the contorls the more likely you are to learn to use them. The less time you spend learning what each control does the quicker you can get onto driving the car.

This article tells you all you need to know about the car controls.

The Instructors Controls

Your instructor has dual control pedals. They are the dual clutch and dual brake. He will use these to take control of the car and support your learning. Do not worry if your clutch suddenly goes to the floor - its the instructor.

Your controls

Hand Operated Controls

1. Parking Brake - This is also known as the handbrake. Press the button and move the lever up or down. It will secure the car when it is stopped. Use it when the car has come to halt for more than a few seconds. Do not use the parking brake when the car is moving.

2. Gear Stick - This allows you to match the speed of the engine to the speed of the car. Its use is explained in the section on changing gears.

3. Indicator Stalk - You will find this next to the steering wheel. This switches the indicators on or off. Flick it up with your fingers to signal right and down for left. You do not need to let go of the steering wheel to operate the indicators. This control will also operate the main beam. Ask your instructor how to do this.

4. Wipers - This is on the other side of the steering wheel. You can switch the wipers to single, pulse(every now and then) , continuous or rapid. This control will also operate the windscreen washers. Ask your instructor how to do this.

5. Steering Wheel - The big wheel in front of you. Place your hands at a comfortable position between ten to two and quarter to three. This provides more control over sudden car movements. To turn the wheel one hand slides to the top of the wheel and pulls it down. At the same time the other hand slides down and pushes the wheel up. This is known as pull push steering. DO NOT CROSS YOUR HANDS WHEN STEERING.

Foot Controls

1. Accelerator - This is the pedal on the right. You use your right foot to operate the accelerator. Apply a gentle pressure to make the car go faster. Release the pressure to slow it down. Your instructor will call this the gas pedal because gas is quicker to say.

2. Brake - This is the middle pedal. You use your right foot to operate this pedal. Start with a gentle pressure, gradually increase it. Release the pressure just before the car comes to a halt.

3. Clutch - The pedal on the left. This is the only pedal that the left foot operates. The clutch is two plates that connects the power part of the engine to the drive part of the engine. Press it down to separate the clutch to change gear. Let the pedal up to engage the clutch. The clutch makes the car go. If it is not in the right place the car will not go.

4. Instructor Commands. Your instructor will use a series of standard commands. These will tell you what to do with your feet. The commands are:

Cover - place your foot over that pedal
More - Push your foot down
Less - Lift your foot up
Set the gas - Enough pressure on the gas pedal to let you hear the engine.

Instruments

These are located on the dashboard behind the steering wheel. The Speedo runs 10, 20 ... up to 140 on some cars. It tells you how fast the car is going. The other dial is the rev counter it tells you how hard the engine is working. Never let the rev needle hit the red part of the dial. You will also find the fuel gage - a needle above a picture of a petrol pump. The dashboard also has a number of warning lights. If a warning light comes on whilst you are on the move - check it out.

Mirrors

1. These are very important. Your mirrors tell you what is happening to the side and behind you.

2. Centre Mirror - The flat mirror hanging on the windscreen. You should be able to see most of the back windscreen whilst you are looking ahead of you. If not move it - but do not touch the glass.

3. Door mirrors - These are convex to allow you see a little further out. You should be able to see a little of the back of the car with just a slight turn of the head. If not change them - Ask your instructor how to do this.

4. Using them - Every time you are going to signal, change speed or direction you should check your mirrors. Check the centre mirror first and then the relevant door mirror. Your instructor might say centre and left or centre and right.

5. What do I look for? Any object. You need to know is it near or far. You need to know is it fast or slow.

6. Why check the mirrors? You need to know what is there before you make a manoeuvre.

More Driving Schools are to offer a BTEC in Driving Skills

Wed, 23 Dec 2009 23:00:24 GMT

by Tim Hillerby - Morgan.

Pass-Time - Shoeburyness and Southend

Bath Driving School & Lanham's School of Motoring - Somerset

Easydrive School of Motoring -Barnsley

Johns School of Motoring - Hertfordshire

Meditation on Choosing a Car

Tue, 22 Dec 2009 23:31:43 GMT

by Tim Hillerby - Morgan.

Now that you have passed your driving test, you can think about your own car.

This article will walk you through some of the things to think about when choosing a car.

The first thing to think about is what sort of car do I want? It is very easy to buy just any car or the same car as everyone else. Why not buy a car that suits your lifestyle? You have worked hard for the right to drive and you are just about to spend a lot of money in one go. Why not take some time to get it right?

Which car will suit me the best?

It can be difficult choosing your first car. This section is a series of questions that will help you decide on the type of car that you want.

Your Driving Instructors car

Did you like the type of car you used for your driving lessons?

Yes - Why not buy one? Some driving schools sell their old cars to previous pupils.

No - Try the next set of questions.

Power

There is a reason that motorcyclists have to work their way up from small bike to large bike. They need to build up their experience before they get on a powerful machine. It is the same with cars - you need to know how to handle an Evo or a Porsche.

Try to get a car about the same power as the one you learnt in. The insurance will be less than the price of the car.

Lifestyle

Do you have young children?

Yes - How are you going to get them in or out?

No - Number of doors is not a problem.

Will you carry a lot of junk or a pet?

Yes - Look at the boot space.

No - Boot space is not a problem.

Will it fit my image?

Yes - Are you sure?

No - What sort of image do you want to give out?

Type of driving

Mainly in town? Think small and easy to park.

Mainly on fast roads? Think easy cruising speed.

Mainly on rural roads? Think safe, reliable, good vision.

Lots of miles? Think about diesel and comfort.

Shops and gym? Think about petrol and space.

Size? It does matter. If you are six foot six and 20 stone, will you be comfortable in a small hatch back? Can I park the car easily?

How much can I afford?

Now that you have decided on the type of car that you want it is time to decide on a price range. You need to know how much you can afford to spend.

Work out a budget. Add up all your expenses. Now subtract anything that you really could do without. Take that amount from your regular income. The amount left over is the amount you can afford to spend every month on a car. It is your car budget.

Your car budget has to cover the cost of the car, fuel, insurance and repairs.

Which Car?

That car type and budget sorted. Let’s find a car.

Research

It is very important that you find out about a car before you buy it. Try to find out what to look for before you go and buy a car. What are the signs that this is a bad car to buy?

Have a look on the internet and see what other people say. What car, Autotrader and Top Gear all have very honest car reviews. Have a look at the guide prices to see what the car is actually worth.

Where to buy?

Main dealers are best for new and nearly new cars. They can offer good deals, especially at the end of the month.

Franchised dealers tend to carry good quality used cars. They can offer excellent deals.

Local Car dealer tend to have used cars. Make sure they have a good reputation.

Paper - People use papers to sell their cars. Be careful - look out for the same phone number in several adverts or the letter T after an advert. These are people trading in used cars. They may not offer the same value for money as a dealership.

If you buy a car from a newspaper, you need to protect yourself from fraud. Go and see the car at their house. If the seller is reluctant to do this then you have to ask yourself why. Make sure that someone can check the car to see that is in good condition. When you pay for the car meet the person at their house and pay cash. You should insist on the documents there and then.

Internet - Be very careful. Make sure that the company, or person, you are buying from is genuine. Do a lot of research before you buy online. Do they have a contact phone number? Is it a real phone number? Do they have an address? Check it out on Google maps. Is it the sort of area a car dealer will work from? Flash website from a terrace house!!!

Apply the same rules as you would for a car from a newspaper.

Auctions - Only if you have a mechanic or car dealer with you. Ask yourself why are these cars in the auction and not on a garage forecourt?

Test Drive

Do I need a test drive?

Yes. You need at least 20 minutes to make sure that you like the car. Do you feel comfortable in it? Can you handle it? No strange noises or smoke?

Finding the money for a car

Mon, 21 Dec 2009 21:44:24 GMT

by Tim Hillerby - Morgan.

Before you start to read this article, I must point out that the advice given relates specifically to the UK. You should think carefully before entering into any financial contract.

Having said that the research techniques can be used in most countries.

You have passed your driving test. That is the end of driving lessons and time to say good bye to your driving instructor.

You need a car of your own now. You might or might not choose to buy the type of car that your driving school used.

This article will help you to think through the best way to finance your new car. We will assume that you have researched the sort of car that you want. You have looked over the papers, magazines and the internet. You have chosen your ideal car.

You should try to buy the car that is in the best condition. You may have to pay more, but you will spend less on repairs and fuel. The money you have saved, or been given, might not be enough for a good quality first car. You may have to borrow the money.

You could go to a bank or a loan company. They will ask you to say how much you can afford to pay back every month before you sign up for a loan. The banks and loan companies need to know that you can afford to pay them back. This means that you have to work out your budget.

When you look for car finance, you need to work out how much you can afford to borrow. It is also important that you understand the terms used in finance.

Key terms

Loan - the amount that you agree to borrow.

Deposit - the amount of your own money that you need to hand over before you take the loan.

Finance - A type of loan.

APR - Annual percentage rate. How much interest you are really paying.

Fixed rate - The APR will not change.

Variable rate - The APR will change.

Secured loans - The loan is secured against some form of property. If you do not repay the loan, the bank takes that property.

Unsecured loans. If the loan is not repaid the bank takes you to court and then sends the bailiff to take some of your property.

Interest - The extra that you pay for the loan.

Charges - The fees charged for arranging the loan.

Repayments - The monthly cost to you.

Term - How long you have to pay the money back.

Personal lease higher - A way of buying a car with an option to return it after a certain time.

Who might lend it to me?

Banks - A good place to look for a loan, but they really do check that you can afford the loan first.

Dealer financing - Easier to get, but tend to cost more.

Loan companies - You see the ads in the paper.

Credit Cards - This is an expensive way of borrowing money.

Doorstep lenders/high-street loans -Very easy to get, but you pay the most.

Questions to ask when borrowing money

These are very important questions. They could save you a lot of money.

What APR are you charging?

What are the arrangement fees for this loan?

Are you an FSA regulated licensed credit broker? Only banks and licensed credit brokers can lend you money. Any one else is committing a crime and will charge you to be a victim of crime.

How long is the loan for?

What repayments are you expecting?

Costing a loan

You want find the best value loan. You need to compare the loans on offer. This means that you need to work out the total cost and total loan.

Total loan = Loan + charges + interest

Total Cost = Repayments x term in months

Lease Purchase plans

Many car companies have LPP plans. These allow you to buy a new car without buying the car. Although they are good way of getting a new car, LPP plans are difficult to understand. This section will help you to understand them.

How LPP work

You find a car that you want.

The dealer tells you the cost of the loan

You put down the deposit

The dealer takes the deposit from the cost of the loan. This is the amount to finance

You then agree how many miles you will do over the three years of the plan. The dealer uses this to work out the return value (GRV)

The GRV is then taken from the amount to finance. Cost of car - deposit -GRV = amount to be financed .

The finance offered is divided by 36 to give your repayments.

At the end of the plan you can either pay the GRV (ballon payments) or hand back the car

Some Facts about Driver Education

Sat, 19 Dec 2009 23:12:15 GMT

by Tim Hillerby - Morgan.

These figures, which follow, are taken from Road Casualties Great Britain: 2007 - Main Results, which is published by the Department for Transport.

27774 people were seriously injured – beyond hope of full recovery.

The number of deaths among car users was 1,432.

The number of car users seriously injured was 11,535.

This is a shocking indictment of the way the UK licences its drivers.

We are not concerned about the overall figures. Instead, I want to concentrate on the 17 – 25 year olds. This is the driving test demographic. This age group is involved in nearly a fifth of all car accidents.

We need to establish the figures for the target group. Transport for London has done this for us. They said that in 2008 17 – 25 year old drivers were involved in 18% of all crashes. Simple maths and we arrive at the figures we need.

4999 people were seriously injured – beyond hope of full recovery.

The number of deaths among car users was 258

The number of car users seriously injured was 2076

The Driving Standards Agency is responsible for driving tests in the UK. They say that those who pass their driving test have had, on average, about 45 hours of professional training combined with 22 hours of private practice. Learners who prepare this way, with a combination of plenty of professional training and plenty of practice, do better in the test.

Yet the problem remains. 17 – 25 year old newly qualified drivers are not properly prepared for life on the roads. There are three main reasons for this.

In the UK, the driving test is a rite of passage. It does fit Ninian Smarts description of a religious rite. The driving test is seen as something to prepare for - An ordeal to be survived. Learner drives are made test ready and not road ready.

The second factor at play is money. Learning to drive is expensive. Parents put driving schools and driving instructors under a lot of pressure to take pupils to test as quickly as possible. Ask any instructor if they have heard this phrase from a parent. “It only took me 10 lessons”

The next factor at play is the test regime itself. It is inadequate for modern driving. The theory test is neither use nor ornament. Learner drivers can buy CDroms with the questions and answers supplied. There is little incentive for them to learn the subject. The driving test is only thirty minutes. This is not enough time to test persons driving skills.

These factors combine to release young drivers onto the roads with out the depth of skills and knowledge they need to stay safe.

Research into Drivers Ed

The main academic research into drivers Ed’ focuses on one study in America. It demonstrates that drivers' has an effect on road safety.

This experiment took place in DeKalb county Atlanta. The high school students were divided into two cohorts. One received drivers and the other did not.

This study showed that a course of drivers Ed reduced the number of accidents in the first sixth months after test by 6%. The reference for this is a 1994 report to congress by NHTSA.

The effect disappeared after six months. This puzzled many of the American researchers. The answer is simple – the longer you have been driving the more road experience you have – the more experience the less likely you are to have accidents. The accident rates even out after two years in this country.

The only conclusion that I can draw from the American studies is Drivers Ed pre-loads driving experience. Drivers Ed is worth six months of driving experience.

European Research.

There is no research published in Europe on this topic.

There is one study on styles of driver testing and training. Stefan Siegrist, Ph. D. Of the Swiss Council for Injury Prevention bfu published it at the Forum on Driver Education and Training, NTSB, Washington, 28/29 October 2003.

The UK and Holland have the lowest accident rates in Europe. The difference between the Dutch and the British is structure. The Dutch system is tightly structured.

The Dutch recently piloted a tightly structured driver raining course. It involves a series of modules similar. The Dutch course is called Driver Training Steps.

In the Dutch province of Gelderland in 2001, a small-scale test with the DTS took place (Nägele & Vissers, 2001). For the 109 DTS learners, the pass rate on their first driving test was 83%. In the period immediately before the DTS was introduced, the pass rate for the regular learners at the same driving schools was 46%.

In addition, the DTS learners had not needed more lessons than the group of regular learners with the 46% pass rate. From January 2002 to April 2003, a large scale follow-up study was done in Gelderland in which 557 DTS learners participated. In this study their pass rate was 75% compared to 53% for the regular driver training given by driving schools involved in this second DTS test.

Claims for Drivers Ed.

It is reasonable to expect that a tightly structured drivers' course will reduce post-test accidents by 6%. It could prevent 300 KSI accidents a year.

A higher pass rate. This is supported by the Dutch experience and the experience of instructors in the UK who structure their training. The effect will be an 8 to 10% increase in pass rates.

A UK Drivers Ed’ Programme will save lives.

Roundabouts

Fri, 18 Dec 2009 22:32:53 GMT

by Tim Hillerby - Morgan.

There are over 10,000 roundabouts in the UK. That figure does not include mini-roundabouts. Roundabouts are designed to make a traffic flow at nasty junctions. If the roundabout were not there, you would be faced with long delays at traffic lights.

Priority

Give way to traffic coming from the right.

Types of Roundabouts

Major. These are large roundabouts, which join major or busy roads together. You might see these at the end of a fast road.
Minor. These join a series of minor roads together. They tend to be smaller than major roundabouts.
Mini. These are designed to reduce your speed at very nasty junctions.

Seeing the Roundabout

You might see various signs telling you that there is a roundabout. You might see grass or trees in the middle of the road. More often than not, you will only see traffic driving round the roundabout.

Going Left

See the roundabout
Assess it. Is it big or small? Is it open or closed? Can you see a lot? Is it busy? If it is open, large and quiet, you can approach in a higher gear.
Mirrors . Centre and left mirror
Signal. Left if you are taking the first exit. Otherwise, do not signal.
Position. Take the left lane
Speed and gear. Try to adjust your speed so that you arrive at a safe gap.
Look. Do you have enough time to enter the roundabout and get to a safe position? Can you leave the roundabout? If not wait.
Travel. Stay in the left lane as you go round the roundabout.

Going Straight On

See the roundabout
Assess it. Is it big or small? Is it open or closed? Can you see a lot? Is it busy? If it is open, large and quiet, you can approach in a higher gear.
Mirrors . All mirrors
Signal. Do not signal.
Position. Take the left lane unless the road marking say otherwise
Speed and gear. Try to adjust your speed so that you arrive at a safe gap.
Look. Do you have enough time to enter the roundabout and get to a safe position? Can you leave the roundabout? If not wait.
Travel. Stay in your lane as you go round the roundabout.
Exiting. Centre and left mirrors and signal as you draw level with the exit before the one you want. Normally leave into the left lane.

Right Turn

See the roundabout
Assess it. Is it big or small? Is it open or closed? Can you see a lot? Is it busy? If it is open, large and quiet, you can approach in a higher gear.
Mirrors . Centre and right mirrors
Signal. Signal Right.
Position. Take the right lane
Speed and gear. Try to adjust your speed so that you arrive at a safe gap.
Look. Do you have enough time to enter the roundabout and get to a safe position? Can you leave the roundabout? If not wait.
Travel. Stay in your lane as you go round the roundabout.
Exiting. Centre and left mirrors and signal as you draw level with the exit before the one you want. Normally leave into the left lane.

Mini Roundabouts

See the roundabout
Assess it. Is it busy? If so, get ready to stop. Can you see enough? If not prepare to stop.
Mirrors . Appropriate mirrors
Signal. As appropriate
Position. Stay in your normal driving position
Speed and gear. Try to adjust your speed so that you arrive ready to stop but prepared to go.
Look. Is any one entering the roundabout from the right?
Exiting. Check your left mirror. Try to signal if you can.

Park the car

Thu, 17 Dec 2009 23:31:04 GMT

by Tim Hillerby - Morgan.

How to park a car?

This article is for anyone who has struggled to park at the supermarket on a Saturday or find a space in town.

The parallel and bay parks were introduced to the driving test at the time of the last test reform. They were introduced to tackle the rising number of car park bumps. They also increase the number of parking spaces in which you can park.

Learner drivers practice thesemanoeuvres in their driving lessons. The driving instructor will teach them the best techniques for them. The techniques in this article will suit most readers.

Remember – if you struggle with any aspect of driving contact a local driving school. They will be happy to help for the price of a driving lesson.

Parallel Park

Why do I need to know this?

This is possibly the most useful of the set manoeuvres.

In many towns, most of the parking spaces are on the road, alongside the kerb.

The chances are that you will need to fit in between two cars. If you drive into the gap, you will need at least four car lengths. If you reverse in to the gap, you will need about two car lengths. Reversing in increases the chance of being able to park.

How do I do this?

Before you start

1. Check that the gap is big enough

2. Check that you are not going to hold up traffic

3. Check that the car behind you knows what you are doing

The manoeuvre

Draw alongside the car around which you are going to reverse. Position yourself as though you were going to pass it in a narrow road.
Stop with your shoulders level with the other cars door mirrors. Make sure that your car is straight and the steering wheel is straight.
Quickly take your seat belt off and put the car into reverse.
Look out of the left rear window. When you see the corner of the other car steer to the left until your car is at an angle of about 45 degrees to the kerb. It should be about half a right angle.
Look at the front of your car. Steer gently to the right.
When your tax disc is pointing at the kerbside corner of the other car steer hard to the right until the car is parallel with the kerb
Stop the car when it is close to and parallel with the kerb,

Points to note

Make sure that you finish with the car within two car lengths of the car in front.

You should not block any driveways to your left. If, in your test, you are going to block a drive tell the examiner “I am going to reverse clear of the drive, but it will take me more than two car lengths from the car in front". Then reverse clear of the drive, unless the examiner stops you.

The Bay Park

Why do I need to know this?

It is normally safer to reverse into a parking bay.

Imagine that you are at Tesco’s on a busy Saturday.

You have driven straight into a parking bay. You are reversing out after shopping. How far do you have to reverse before you see the child that has run off from its mum? Same situation, but you reversed into the bay. How far forward do you have to go before you see that child?

It is safer to reverse into a parking bay. You can see more when you pull out again.

Unless the parking bays are at an angle or other drivers have parked badly you should reverse into the parking bay.

This is the same skill as reversing around a sharp corner or onto a drive.

How do I do this?

There are two methods. The straight bay park, and the angled bay park. We will look at the straight bay park. Ask your instructor to take you through both methods.

Before you start

1. Chose your bay. Ones to your right are normally easiest.

2. Make sure that it is big enough. Can you get out of the car when you are parked? Don't laugh – it does happen.

Doing the bay park

1. Position your self three to four bays beyond the bay you want.

2. Position the car towards the centre of the lane. Make sure that you let people know what you are doing. Put the car into reverse as soon as you can.

3. Look over your right shoulder, reverse back very slowly, steer the car into your target bay.

4. As the car straightens up check your door mirrors. Make sure that the car is in the centre of the bay. Straighten the car and the steering wheel.

5. Look over your left shoulder and reverse back until you are inside the parking bay.

Points to note

It is vital that you keep checking all around you as you reverse into the parking bay.

Stop!!

Tue, 15 Dec 2009 22:41:25 GMT

by Tim Hillerby - Morgan.

Most car accidents are caused by driver error. It might not be you at fault, but it will be someone’s fault that you crashed. This is why most driving instructors tell their learner drivers rule number one on their first driving lesson.

Rule number one sates “Everybody else on the road is a complete and utter fool. Treat them as such. Stay well away and tell them what you are going to do”. Staying away from foolish drivers is easy. You need to develop the habit of good hazard awareness. Try to see what the other driver is about to do well before they become a problem.

Even the best drivers are caught out occasionally. They will have to react quickly to prevent an accident. This article explains how to stop in an emergency.

Ask your driving instructor if you can practice the emergency stop. You should practice it with in a driving school car. Other drivers expect you to stop suddenly. The driving instructor knows when it is safe to stop suddenly.

You should only use this technique to prevent injury to yourself or another road user.

You are driving along a country road and a small bird flies out of a hedge six feet from you. You would not carry out an emergency stop, it is not going to hurt you or damage the car. If a sheep ran out six feet from you then you would need the emergency stop. The impact will hurt you and the car.

You are driving in town and a little Scottie dog runs into the road a few feet ahead. You would not do the emergency stop. It is not likely to hurt you or the car. A German Shepherd Dog would need an emergency stop because that impact will hurt you and the car.

This does not mean that you should run over dogs or birds. If you can stop in time then stop.

What if a child runs out in front of you? What if a car pulls out in front of you?

You will need to practice the manoeuvre. Only your driving instructor or driving examiner can insist on you doing this exercise. We are trained to decide if it safe. If you are practising with a relative, you both must decide if it is safe.

The Controlled Stop

The emergency stop is best described as the controlled stop. You want to stop quickly and under control.

Do not check your mirrors. There is no time.

Hold the steering wheel firmly.

Brake followed straight away by the clutch

Firm fast breaking to a halt

Secure the car and check no one is hurt.

Move off as you normally would.

Skids

Skids are caused by driver error. The driver was not driving to the road and traffic conditions.

If you are skidding, lift your feet off the pedals

If you are skidding in a straight line just keep the steering wheel straight.

If you are skidding to the right steer to the left until the car is straight.

If you are skidding to the left, steer to the right.

ABS

Most modern cars are equipped with ABS. This is a system of sensors. If the wheels are locking under hard braking, the sensors make the car take over braking. The car will pump the breaks faster than any human can.

ABS allows you to steer in an emergency. IT DOES NOT PREVENT SKIDDING.

If, when braking in an emergency, you feel a 'thump thump' under the pedals it is the ABS. Just keep braking.

Overtaking

Mon, 14 Dec 2009 23:51:47 GMT

by Tim Hillerby - Morgan.

Overtaking

Imagine this scene.

You are driving along a country road. It is a bright day with a couple of cars ahead of you. You are doing 60 and closing on the cars ahead. Do you overtake them?

Overtaking is one of the most dangerous manoeuvres a driver can make. You are deliberately driving on the wrong side of the road towards oncoming traffic. It is vital that you know how to overtake safely.

When to overtake

Before you can think about how to overtake, you need to know when to overtake. Learner drivers in the UK are taught one of the best ways of deciding when to overtake. Their driving instructors teach them NSL. Necessary Safe and Legal.

The overtake must be necessary. Have you ever seen a driver overtake you on a dual carriageway and leave at the next exit? You should only overtake when you need to maintain progress. There is no point overtaking if you are about to turn left.

It must be safe to make the overtake. Can you complete the overtake without affecting any other drivers? Are you going to put yourself in danger? An overtake is only safe when you have enough space to return to and enough time to return. Make sure that you can abandon the overtake.

It must be legal to make the overtake. Solid white lines may be frustrating, but they are there for a reason. The council would not waste £9 a metre on paint. Examples of illegal overtakes include: on solid white lines, entering an operational bus lane, overtaking on a pedestrian crossing, overtaking at excess speed.

How to Overtake

Once you realise that you may need to overtake carry out the NSL checks. Assume that the overtake is safe.

Position the car so that you can keep checking that it is safe to overtake.

Check your mirrors and give the appropriate signal. Check your mirrors again and move to the right of your lane. Keep checking that it is safe to overtake

Check your mirrors and increase your speed. If it is still safe make the overtake. Do not hang about. Get past the car as quickly as you safely can.

Check your mirrors and move back to the left as soon as it is safe.

Overtaking is dangerous

Think about the combined speeds. If your car and the other car are both doing 60, the combined speed is 120. You must be aware of the cars behind you – they might be about to overtake.

The car in front might turn right. It might not signal to turn right. It is your job to look for the clues. The driver might turn their head. The car might slow down or move to the right. If you are lucky, they might be turning at a junction you missed.

You must be especially careful if you overtake on a three-lane road. Cars travelling in either direction can use the middle lane to overtake.

Avoid overtaking on the left. You can overtake on the left if the other car is turning right, or traffic on the right is moving slowly or in a one-way street.

Core Driving Routine

Sun, 13 Dec 2009 23:08:35 GMT

by Tim Hillerby - Morgan.

MSPSL

I am going to give you the same advice as I give all my driving school clients. Driving is a complex business. MSPSL makes it easier. Get into the habit of using the routine – it may save your life.

The human mind is a very powerful instrument. It is made up of millions of connections. Each of these connections is part of a neural pathway. Every time your mind thinks it uses up one or more of these pathways. Your mind can process millions of neural pathways without you noticing.

Unfortunately, it is not so good at conscious thought. You can only process seven conscious thought actions at any one time. There are more than 20 thought processes involved in making a turn. This is why drivers use a driving routine.

The MSPSL routine is seven easy steps to every hazard.

Imagine that you are on a drive and we are coming up to a junction. I would like you to turn left. How are you going to make that turn safely?

Here is how. -MSPSL

See the junction – You need to know where the junction is before you can make your turn. It could be signed; it could be a gap in a fence or houses. It could be a gap in the kerb.

Assess the junction – think traffic and vision. How much can I see and how busy is it? A junction where you can see a lot is an open junction. A junction with little chance to see into the new road is a closed junction.

Mirrors – Check to see what is behind you and to the left.

Signal – left in this case. This will attract the attention of anyone around the corner and behind you.

Position - slightly to the left of your normal drving position

Speed – Redcue your speed and select an appropriate gear before you start to turn. Make sure that your clutch is up before you turn. make sure you can stop if......

Look – look into the new road and see what is there.

Using your eyes

Sun, 13 Dec 2009 23:05:32 GMT

by Tim Hillerby - Morgan.

Hazard Awareness

A good driver is aware of other road users and anticipates what they are going to do. They are hazard aware. This is the skill of scanning the road and linking what you see to what you need to do. Learn to do this early enough and you will find that you really are the king of the road.

Try this little test. Pick a route that you are familiar with and drive regularly. Next time you drive that route tell yourself what you see up-ahead. How much more did you see compared to the day before? Scary isn’t it!

Some people ask me why should I bother looking any further than two cars ahead. There are three reasons. Good hazard awareness makes driving less stressful - 70% or road problems vanish if you spot the problems early enough and react straight away. Secondly it is cheaper - If you respond early you can respond gently and this could save you up to a months gas a year. Lastly it is safer - you will find that you are making the right choices for the road ahead.

What is a hazard?

A hazard is anything that could make you change the way that you are driving. Put more simply -its something that you have to deal with. They come in three forms. Fixed Hazards never move -Junctions are an example of a fixed hazard. Potential Hazards might change - Parked cars might pull out. Dynamic Hazards are also known as moving or actual hazards. A car emerging from a junction is a dynamic hazard. You must react to dynamic hazards

You may have more than one hazard. Prioritize them. Flesh over car. Near over far. Moving over potential over fixed.

Observation skills are the core of hazard awareness. It used to be called reading the road, though the term scanning is more popular amongst driving instructors these days. Personally I call it seeing.

New Scotland Yard have been teaching these skills to there police officers since 1956. Metropolitan Police traffic officers are reckoned to be amongst the best trained drivers in the world. The UK government’s department of transport has asked its driving standards agency to make sure that all learner drivers are taught these skills. This means that every British driving instructor is teaching these skills in every driving lesson.

There are five habits to good hazard awareness. They are:

Look well ahead
Keep your eyes moving
Look from building to building
Spot the problems
React now

Lets take the first two habits. Look as far down the road as you can see. Then mid-distance. Then close to the car. Then check whats happening in the mirrors. Practice doing this every time you drive.

The third habit is the hardest to develop. You must become aware of the entire road - even the sidewalks and alleys.

The easiest way to develop this skill is to position your car correctly.

Position your car so that you have the best view of the road ahead of you. You need to see what is happening as far ahead as possible. You can use cars and windows as mirrors. You can look through the gaps in buildings and fences as you approach junctions. You can look over, under and through parked cars and the cars ahead of you.

The fourth habit is the easiest to develop. Here are some exercises to try in the car:

1.Say what you can see. For example, ‘Traffic lights in the distance. Pedestrian near a crossing, junction right, cyclist to my rear’

2.Shout it out. Every time the scene changes shout it out. For example, ‘Car junction . Cyclist on crossing’

3.What is he trying to do? Try to predict what another road user is going to do. For example, ‘ Pedestrian left looking across the road - likely to cross quickly. Boy leaving nursery alone - run out in front of you’

The easiest habit to develop is reacting now. You will find that as soon as you identify a hazard your foot will start to lift of that gas pedal.

Does it work? Yes. I am a Driving Instructor and former police driver. I can cross my home town (Hull) and only touch my brakes three to eight times. That is a distance of three miles through the center of the UKs fifteenth largest town.

The Big Day

Sun, 13 Dec 2009 22:59:53 GMT

by Tim Hillerby - Morgan.

The Night before the Test

Make sure that you have both parts of your driving licence ready to pick up in the morning. You need to put them where you can pick them up with out thinking about them. The last thing you need tomorrow is the stress of finding them.

Some of my clients ask me if the way that they dress affects the way the examiner marks them. The short answer is no. You wear clothes that you feel comfortable in and the shoes that you normally wear for driving lessons. Think about being comfortable and relaxed.

Now sleep – try to get some.

The Hour before Your driving Test

Your driving instructor will probably have arranged a two-hour lesson for your driving test. The forty or so minutes before your test are your chance to shake out those last minute butterflies. Just drive the car and enjoy the drive. You can take some time to practice anything that has been worrying you.

I can guarantee that you will make two or three horrendous mistakes before your test. This is normal. We all did it before our driving tests. The truth is that they are not such bad mistakes. It is the adrenaline kicking in. Your body is getting ready for the driving test. Adrenaline can produce courage or fear – your choice – make it now. If you really want a driving licence, opt for courage.

Your instructor will make sure that you arrive at the test centre ten minutes before the test. Park the car so that you can drive straight out at the start of the test.

In the test centre

The test examiner will work into the room and call out your name. The test examiner is easy to recognise – the yellow vest and the fact that they are calling your name should give you a hint.

The examiner will ask to see your licence, which they will check using a UV lamp. Genuine driving licences have a special logo, which only shows up under UV.

They will ask you to ‘read and sign the declarations at the top of the form’. These say that the car is insured for the driving test and that you live in the UK.

The examiner will lead you out to the car park and ask you which your car is. They will then ask you to read the number plate of different car. Be warned –if after three attempts you cannot read the number plate at the minimum legally required distance you will fail your driving test.

Driving Test

The driving test starts with the show me tell me questions. The examiner will ask your two questions about vehicle maintenance. Your instructor will have told you about this.

Once the examiner is in the car, the driving test begins. The examiner will explain what will happen on the driving test. ‘This is a test of your ability to drive. The test will last approximately 35 minutes and cover a variety of road and traffic conditions. Follow the road ahead unless road signs or markings indicate otherwise. If I want you to change direction, I will give you instruction in plenty of time. During the test, we will carry out two manoeuvres and possibly the emergency stop if it is safe to do so. Drive on when it is safe to do so.”

That long quote tells you that the examiner will tell you where to go. If they do not just follow the road ahead.

On the test drive, the examiner will tell you when they want you to turn left or right. Listen to the way they say it. There is a clue in every direction that they give. Take the next available means look out for no entry signs.

The same goes for the manoeuvres. The instructions will tell you what to do, and not to do.

The examiner will ask you to park up and drive straight on a few times. They haven’t lost it. They are checking that you can park the car safely.

Back at the Test Centre

Half an hour or so later, you will arrive back at the test centre. The examiner will mark the sheets and give you the result. No matter what the result listen to the examiners debrief. Better still ask your instructor to listen to it as well. They are more likely to remember what you need to work on.

Faults

There are three types of driving fault. Minor serious and dangerous. You can pass with 15 minor faults. You fail as soon as you have a serious or dangerous fault.

Dangerous – you, the examiner or another road user had to act to avoid an accident. You can be marked as dangerous if the way you drove was dangerous or illegal.

Serious – could have cause an accident if another road user had been present. If the examiner had to instruct you that is a serious fault

Minor – These are things a good driver would not do. If you repeat the same fault, the examiner has the right to mark it as a serious fault. This is called a bad driving habit. If, for example, you failed to check your mirrors three times that is a bad driving habit. The fourth time the examiner could mark it as a serious fault.

Eco - Safe Driving

Sun, 13 Dec 2009 22:58:43 GMT

by Tim Hillerby - Morgan.

The problem
The growth of motor traffic is causing the world a lot of problems. It is likely that we will run out of oil within the next few decades. Pollution is getting worse. Your car produces a long list of toxic gasses every time you use it. These gases go into the air and stay there for a long time. They damage the environment and contribute to global warming.
We have no option but to reduce the amount of fuel we use. This will reduce the amount of pollution that we create. It will increase the time that the world has to adapt to the end of the oil. Moreover – it will save you money. An average UK driver will save about £800 a year. In the USA, an average driver will save about $500 a year.

Step one -choosing
• Pick the right gearbox.
o An automatic gearbox uses 10% more fuel than a manual, or stick shift.
• Pick the right fuel
o Diesel engines can use up to 20% less fuel than equivalent petrol engines. They produce less CO2 but lots more particulates. These particulates cause damage to buildings and reduce air quality.
o LPG is not a green product. It is a by-product of the oil industry. It was burned off at the refinery. Now it is used in cars and heating systems. It is 6% less efficient than petrol.
o Hybrid cars combine an electric motor with a petrol engine. This system has a lot of potential as a green system. Some hybrid models are more fuel efficient than their conventional versions. Others are less fuel-efficient.
o Fuel cell systems. Very green but no infrastructure

Step two - Care for your car.
When your car is serviced, the garage will tune the engine to make sure that it is working properly. A properly tuned engine uses less fuel. The older your car the more care and attention it will need.
Properly inflated tyres can save you up to 15 miles a gallon. I check my tyres every week. If I forget, I notice the difference in my wallet.

Step three - Loose some weight
A cars engine does not reach its operating temperature for about a quarter mile. It will use more fuel in the first five minutes of a journey than it will in the next five minutes. If you can walk there and back, you should walk there and back. If you can use public transport then use it.
You car was designed to work at a certain power to weight ratio. If you add heavy items to the car, it has to work harder to produce the same effect. If you take the heavy junk out of your car, you will use less fuel.
Roof boxes, sat navs, mobile phone chargers, open windows and air conditioning waste fuel. Try to do without them.

Step four –driving style
Accelerating and braking waste fuel. Your car uses more fuel when it is increasing speed and slowing down using the brakes. A smooth driving style saves you fuel.
Try to look well ahead and react to problems as soon as you see them. This will let you react by reducing your pressure on the gas pedal.

Taken from the Driving Instrutor association Website

Sun, 13 Dec 2009 22:55:25 GMT

by Tim Hillerby - Morgan.

This is part of an aticle about the BTEC. The article was published on the Driving Instructor Association Website.

You will find the full article at http://www.driving.org/news.html?view_article=21466

Launched by The Drivers Ed’ Company, the BTEC Intermediate Award in Driving Skills is designed to support in-car training carried out by driving instructors.

The course designer, Hull driving instructor Tim Hillerby-Morgan, said that learner drivers are likely to save an average of £223 on driving lessons. “It will take them about 14 fewer hours to pass their test. At an average rate of £22 per lesson, that works out at a saving of £308, less the £85 course fee.”

The course takes learner drivers through the theory and knowledge of each aspect of how to drive a car, preparing them for the test and subsequently the Pass Plus scheme.

Learners are also taught subjects which are not normally covered in driving instruction. This includes how to achieve the best cornering speed, how to drive at night and how to choose the correct gear and speed to deal with any situation. Pupils are also introduced to the advanced police driving standard.